Fuel starvation again

I've been having the fuel starvation issues again. It was such a deja vu that I can't even retell the whole, groundhog day sequence with any confidence. Long story short, the car gets weak power, then stalls. I wait a couple minutes, turn on engine, with difficulty, let it idle. It can idle indefinitely, but when I get back on the road the drop in pressure/power happens again. There are bubbles in the lines. The first time it happened, years ago, I tried adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel filter and lines and that helped short term. Back then the final issue seemed to be a fuel tank obstruction.

I brought the car to Phat Phoo, but by that time the problem had disappeared. This happened twice, so every time I picked up the car, it was running fine, but the problem hadn't really been solved. This speaks well of Phat Phoo; as cars get closer to him, they fix themselves. I have the same influence over computers, so I can relate. Last time the diagnosis involved gelling. It had been fairly cold a few mornings, so I wouldn't be surprised if some serious jelling had built up. I've been running on regular diesel since the problems, without issues, but of course it's dirty, so next time I use bio again, the soot will build up due to bio's cleaning properties.

My current outlook is this: It's probably jelling from the biodiesel (or less likely dirt from the diesel). Everyone had warned me that I would have to change the oil filter a lot. Every time it happens I fear it's the fuel pump, which has been rebuilt, or the tank which has also been rebuilt, but completely from scratch.

So my present solution is this. Take along an oil filter filled with Marvel Mystery Oil; keep a bottle of the stuff in the car, too, and of course my homemade little funnel, a flathead screwdriver, pliers, paper towels. Then, if the problem starts again, I'll just replace the filter on the road and pour some MMO into the lines, instead of trying to somehow flush the filter out.

I am also looking into attaching an inline fuel filter, so I can better see and predict what kind of gunk is getting into the fuel filter.

Tank pretends it's full

When I recently put more biodiesel into the tank with an electrical pump, some of the biodiesel spilled out. I put the nozzle further inside, and the problem went away. Soon after, I had those fuel starvation problems, which the fuel filter fixed. I don't know if the two events are related or not.

Recently I tried putting more fuel into the tank with my own hand crank and the fuel spilled out again. The tank was about one-eighth full at the time. I tried forcing it in, and also dripping it in slowly. It kept spilling over after about 8 ounces was put in. I went to a gas station to test the electrical pump, but it just clicked as if the tank was full. I brought it to Terry's Automotive, but they said it could be many things causing this, and that I should go to Best Motor Works, which is the place that put in the tank; they'd know what kinds of valves and fuel lines are involved. I dreaded having to drive all the way across town, with very little fuel left. I figured out, though, that if I slowly put in about one cup of fuel at a time and waited a few minutes, that the tank did actually take in the fuel. A quick calculation told me that a gallon would require 16 cups, and each cup needed about 5 minutes to fully drop in, so one gallon would require about 80 minutes. A daunting task, but worth the security of having a more than a few gallons in the tank. Each gallon should get me about 40 miles and a stress-free ride.

Sometimes the fuel went in quietly, sometimes it gurgled — clues to what is happening inside. After putting in about 10 cups I heard a gurgling and a mechanical "kachink" sound. This was exciting, in that it could be some kind of valve popping open, or some obstruction releasing. I put in the cups in little more quickly, and there was no spillage. Then I tried putting in fuel directly from the nozzle (which puts in about one cup for every two cranks, a gallon takes less than a minute, so there is a lot more fuel going in at once).  Again, no spillage. This was very encouraging and it meant that not only did I have enough fuel for a longer trip, but I wouldn't have to take the trip to the mechanic at all.

I take away the lesson that I shouldn't let the tank get down to less than a quarter full, even though I don't know if that was the problem here. My sense is that some valve system in the tank needed to be surrounded by fuel in order to open up properly, or maybe a certain maximum of air inside the tank had to be avoided, in order for the tank to be able to receive fuel. Another speculation is that the biofuel's sticky, gelly deposits caused the valve to stick and that enough fuel dissolved the sticking. Who knows?

I had heard that one shouldn't fill the tank up all the way, and also never let it get all the way empty, but not that a quarter tank is already a problem.

Do you want to run your car on biodiesel?

These are your options regarding running your car on biodiesel:

First, know the difference between biodiesel, and SVO/WVO. Biodiesel runs on normal diesel cars (with some hoses changed at most), straight or waste oil needs a converted diesel car.

Biodiesel works in regular diesel engines. It has been processed so it ignites at the same temperature as regular diesel. It is processed from a large variety of plant or animal sources, such as animal fat, soy oil, or waste vegetable oil (wvo) from restaurants.

SVO/WVO means straight vegetable oil (as opposed to biodiesel) or waste vegetable oil. Think of it as "crude oil" or "biodiesel before processing." SVO/WVO runs only on diesel engines that have been "converted". The conversions heat the oil to the right temperature. Many conversions have a system which starts the engine on regular (or bio) diesel, then switches over to a second tank of SVO/WVO.

Here are the options for each type of fuel.

Biodiesel:
1. Get a diesel car (ebaymotors, craigslist, thesamba, etc). Older diesels are more likely to work, late models tend to have fancier systems which may get clogged by biodiesel. Many new models void their warranty if biodiesel is used.

2. Make sure the fuel lines are the right ones. Standard fuel lines will corrode from the biodiesel. Some model diesels already have the correct fuel lines, others need them replaced. Viton fuel lines are one option. Replacing the fuel lines is fairly easy job for any mechanic.

3. Buy biodiesel. You can buy biodiesel (craigslist, ebay, greasecar.com). If you are very lucky, you can actually go to a station and fill up the car (but that's rare), otherwise you find a producer or supplier from which to pick up or maybe get deliveries from.  In that case you'll need storage such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallon drums.

4. Or, make biodiesel yourself form SVO/WVO. You'd need to buy or find (from restaurants) vegetable oil and use a processor, which you can make or buy, to clean and chemically convert the oil into biodiesel. This is a more space and time consuming process than just buying the biodiesel, but under the right circumstances you can save a lot of money this way.

WVO/SVO
1. Get a diesel car, either one that can be converted to SVO/WVO. or one that already is.

2. If the car needs conversion, have it converted to SVO/WVO, or do it yourself.

3. Find a source of oil. You can buy bulk straight vegetable oil, or buy or get free waste vegetable oil from restaurants. Waste oil needs to be cleaned, which is not a complicated process, but it's work.

Advantages/Disadvantages to each option

Biodiesel is better for the environment than regular diesel, but not as good as WVO/SVO. The production involves methanol and lye. Its great advantage however is that existing diesel cars can use it (some with the fuel lines switched out, which is cheap). This makes it a very viable fuel for a large number of people, right now! By driving a car with biodiesel, you are modeling a cleaner way to drive that anyone can adopt without much effort.

WVO/SVO as a direct fuel requires modification of a car, and this is somewhat costly (up to $2500). But it is the more environmental option because no chemicals are involved in its production, you are recycling waste oil. Driving an WVO/SVO signifies more of a commitment on your part, but may be too much to ask of the average driver. It's inspiring, but impractical for the majority of people (unless we get large numbers of industrially produced straight oil cars, which isn't likely to happen).

Some links:
SVO vs. Biodiesel
SVO vs. Biodiesel 2
Find biodiesel in your area
biodiesel.org
Convert a diesel to a wvo car (two tank system)
Good Grease
Buy a readymade processor
Build your own processor

Why biodiesel?

The reason I chose biodiesel as an alternative fuel is that it can be used immediately: one doesn't need to be a serious hobbyist or car expert. It is much better than regular fossil fuels in terms of carbon use and emissions, and provides enormous flexibility of sourcing. It is not "the solution" to the energy question. In fact, what makes it appealing at the moment, is that it isn't burdened with being the only, or ultimate, solution. If everyone, overnight, chose biodiesel as their fuel, it would be a disaster. But as a smaller scale, temporary solution it is ideal.

Now is the time for biodiesel. It is a realistic, less polluting option, while humanity comes up with cleaner solutions. It really doesn't make sense to drive around wasting valuable petroleum, and contributing to you-know-what until a "magic bullet" is found. "The solution" is a path of intermediate, imperfect but improving adoptions. Moderation and innovation are what's needed, not bickering over perfection.

Here are biodiesel's advantages over many of the other alternative energy sources for automobiles.

Regular diesel cars can use biodiesel right now. They are commonly available as new and used models, unlike battery driven, hydrogen, compressed air or compressed gas cars. Gas/electric hybrids are now very available, but used ones are scarce and have the hybrid battery expiration problem (replacing a hybrid battery is expensive). New cars are often cleaner overall, but making a whole new car is very polluting. Diesel encourages buying or using older cars. Also, large commerical trucks, which use an enormous amount of fuel per mile because they require more strength to pull their weights, are very compatible with biodiesel. The "reduce, reuse, recycle" paradigm fits biodiesel more than any other alternative at this moment.

Biodiesel is very flexible. Ethanol, which is also very flexible in terms of sources, is a great option in that it works with many regular gas cars, but then one relies on regular gas engines, which are less efficient than diesel. Ethanol, too, can be produced from a variety of sources, but not from as many as biodiesel.  A diesel car can use biodiesel AND always has the option of being converted to a SVO/WVO, which in turn does not exclude using biodiesel or regular diesel as a backup. Biodiesel protects a car's backwards and forwards compatibility.

Biodiesel is non-toxic (well, just a little) and not explosive (at normal temperatures). If regional or occasional scarcity is a problem, carrying around containers of biodiesel in the car itself is a relatively safe option. Having larger amounts of it on your property does not involve significant hazards. There are no fumes, nor risks of sudden explosions. This "harmlessness" is actually very important, because it means that ordinary people can experiment with committing their car to biodiesel without fear.

Most importantly, biodiesel is a more democratic source of energy, because it can be produced from so many types of feedstocks or waste oils, and be produced by so many non-corporate elements of the population. It can be "home brewed" and even "home grown"(meaning the oils themselves are produced from seeds, grasses, algea, etc.)  In this regard, it resembles solar and wind energy, which can be produced privately, and distributed back into the market. With biodiesel/SVO/WVO/homegrown fuel there is the potential of a large number of people producing themselves and competing with larger conglomerates, undermining their monopoly. Ethanol and hydrogen are not democratic, they rely completely on a corporate elite of expertise and capital, not to mention on troubling government subsidies. Electric and plug-in hybrid cars also have the democratic sourcing potential, when individuals use solar, wind, or thermal energy to charge their cars,  but the car models aren't very common yet (although I expect this path to be the ultimate winner). The ideal car for the next 5-10 years, which no one seems to be producing yet, would be a biodiesel compatible, plug-in hybrid. Biodiesel and electricity would in such a case exponentially multiply each other's flexibility.

Building a home fueling station

Today I finished the long planned improvement of my fueling station. Originally I just used 5 gallon "cubies" to pour directly in the tank (maybe that's what caused the eventual "obstruction" in it.) That system was very annoying because holding the fuel containers for that long caused cramping in my hands and my back.

Then I bought a used 55 gallon drum, built a solid shelf for it out of 4x4 wood planks so it could "gravity feed" into the car using water tubes and a water gun normally used for lawn care. Those hoses and fitting quickly deteriorated due to the biodiesel.

I got more concerned about the cleanliness of the fuel and the convenience of the fueling so I added a fuel gun and fuel filter to the line. But the fuel line is too long (12 feet) and constantly sags. I tried having it cut, but no one was able to do it. Adding fuel to the drum never really worked well. I tried using a "drill pump" and ingenious little device that attaches to a regular electric drill and suctions fuel from one place to another, but it takes a while and doesn't work well with hoses that fold easily.

I remembered seeing images of people's setups with the drums on the ground, vertically, with a pump on top. I started looking into electric pumps, but the 120 V versions are too expensive, and the 12volt versions all use car starter cables and don't have a "bung" (the pipe that runs from the pump to the bottom of the drum). Online, it seemed most people were using hand pumps. These pumps are not expensive, and it looks like they are one of those classic designs that has long lost its copyright protections, so there are many versions. A design like that will probably work very well having proved itself over the decades. Many come in red, which happens to match the fuel tank nicely, as if they were a single unit. At Amazon, which had the most choices and the same prices as Northern Tool, and better prices than Tractor Trailer Supply, I chose the "Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-5009 Rotary Barrel Pump with Telescoping Pipe"  although I think most of the others would have been fine as well.

I thought I was getting an outlet with a threaded end, but it was just thickened a bit, so I had to rethink how to attach it. At Home Depot I found a reinforced 1 inch transparent tube, which fit perfectly. Using hose clamps I attached it to the outlet and the fuel gun and filter end. I kept the strong 4x4 planks on top so I could pour fuel into the tank from above, while the cubies sit suspended, and attached a (red) funnel, which greatly improves adding fuel to the drum. Then onto the funnel I can add a filter (such as an old t-shirt or sheet or a 5 micron cloth filter) which means no more bucket to bucket filtering. I also added a shelf to contain all the cubies. I can definitely recommend this setup.

Building a new fuel tank

Mickey and I were unable to find a used fuel tank. I did find someone in town who claimed to be able to solder the tank back to functionality, but it was expensive and I wasn't sure it would really work, since Mickey was very skeptical about it. Mickey found a place that could actually build a tank, which was very tempting to me: not only will the tank be new and clean, but it could also be somewhat larger.

I was in Europe at the time when Mickey told me that the tank had been rebuilt and it has a capacity of 20 gallons (instead of 13 gallons). This made me very happy, because it means that not only can the car drive a long time due to efficiency, but also because of the large tank. It means that if I were to go at 50 mpg, which I doubt, I could get to NYC from Florida on about one tank. For about 40$, with (close to) minimal pollution. Reality of course is less optimal, but in terms of hypermiling, this is becoming quite a car. Add to this the  biodiesel non-volatile nature, which allows carrying containers of fuel inside the car, and I should in theory be able to drive extremely long distances without having to find a fueling station.

So, the tank obstruction, which seemed to be an insurmountable problem, has lead to a great improvement.

The fuel tank needs to be replaced

The obstruction in the tank requires a serious cleaning. Mickey had a place near the shop try to clean it, but the effort failed. In the meantime I have been researching fuel tanks for the VW pickup. It's apparently a real problem. There are quite a few people looking for a replacement tank for this model, without much luck. Although the pickup is identical in many ways to the regular model rabbit of its time, the fuel tank is different for the pickup. Not many of these pickups were made, so now there is a shortage of tanks. There are sites which claim to have the right tank, but the pipes in inlets are usually not in the right place.

It's interesting how the internet can give a very clear impression of "absence". All mentions of my holy grail are either missing or mentioned as impossible, or claimed without reputable backing. After a while, it seems that the object of search is hard to get. But, of course the internet is vast and the search can always continue. Maybe one hasn't searched enough. Is calling people directly a time-saver here?

This is really one of the low points in dealing with the pickup truck. There doesn't seem to be a solution here. 

Maybe this is what will kill the entire project ...

An obstruction in the tank

Mickey from Best Motor Works says the car has serious gas starvation issues, due to an obstruction in the gas tank. I was worried about something like that. To use a biological metaphor, this is the equivalent of having fainting spells and the doctor tells you it's not the arteries, it's the heart - meaning it's a major problem. Mickey suggests as the first step to try cleaning the tank out. A place next door to the shop can do the job.

Engine loses power

Today I showed my son Oscar how to drive stick. He did very well. In the process I noticed a lack of power on the gas pedal. Then the engine started stalling. I tried it again a bit later and the next day.

This is very disappointing because I had gotten used to the car being reliable. Now it intermittently fails to run, which means I can no longer trust it for trips.

This time I don't think its the fuel lines, or the alternator/battery. Here we go again.

Bubbles in the fuel lines

I called Smitty regarding the motor dying. He suggests changing the oil filter as a first step. Glad to have a reason to learn about that. He will have one ready for me today to pick up. I'm optimistic, but I think it could also be the fuel pump, although that has been replaced recently.

Over a period of several weeks I tried introducing cleaning fluids (Magical Mystery oil, based on Smitty's advice), and just learning about how fluids pass into the the engine. I learned that getting rid of the bubbles in the fuel line makes the engine run smoothly.  I built a custom funnel with interior air outlet to be able to pour fuel into the lines directly. Then I video'd the bubbly fuel lines, sent it to a friend and he said that's the problem (or a symptom). Another friend concurred that the bubbles are the sign of the problem. But what is the culprit? Fuel filter? Faulty fittings? Fuel injection pump. In the end I went to a mechanic, Mickey Figueroa from Best Motor Works,  which my friend Jack Stenner recommended. This mechanic was closer by than Smitty when I broke down, and I really wanted to try to drive the car there instead of relying on AAA. Maybe this mechanic will a different view of things, maybe even break the "curse of the rabbit."

Fixing the lack of acceleration, the alternator, the leaking hoses

I recently picked up the car again [4/23/09], after Smitty made some effective fixes. The main fix was the rebuild of the injection pump. The car really feels differently now and is able to accelerate fast enough to make it onto a highway. Also, the battery no longer drains [I've had no problems starting the car since then —3/14/10]. Here is an email I sent to Smitty, and below is his email after his fixes.

Hi Smitty and all,

[unrelated deleted]

Below a listing and report on the car issues.

Long story short:

Could we make this car reliable? It eats batteries, fuel lines spurt fuel, and it can't accelerate enough to avoid being honked at or get on the highway.

It's an extremely traumatic car to drive. No one in my family wants to go near it. 

Long story itemized:

1. Fuel lines spurt fuel. Several of the fuel lines have cracked open and spurted fuel, once to the point of emptying the tank in a few minutes. Are they the wrong lines, or were they put in wrong?

2. The batteries fail constantly. I always carry a second fully charged battery for this case, and need it often (like on the way to the shop yesterday). When I got the car originally it came with a dead battery. I don't think this problem has ever been solved. It's either something with the alternator or it's some kind of spike or short, I would guess. Somewhere in the system, energy is being drained. I checked them with a voltmeter while revving the engine, and there is power coming through, maybe too much, but you might want to test that again.

3. The engine is very weak. I know it's a weak engine to begin with, and I know it's better than how it was before, but there must be a way to get it to be within reason. Did they really sell consumer cars in the 80's that couldn't get on the highway? Is the turbo for real or not? If not, can it be replaced? Can the engine be replaced? Smitty, you mentioned moving the fuel injection closer up. Let's try that or whatever else you can suggest. What are the different options and costs?

4. One of the belts is very loose. It makes a rattling noise when starting the car and goes away when you rev the motor, or after second gear. It doesn't always do this, so you may not notice it immediately.

5. The AC vent used to at least blow air from the left vent. Now it makes a screeching noise. How much would it take/cost to get the vents or even the AC to work?

6. The clutch is "high" according to several people who've driven the car. Can that be adjusted?

7. When going in reverse the rear lights don't light up.

8. I looked under the car. It looks rusty. Is that safe? If so for how long? What can I do about it?

9. The window washer fluid mechanism isn't really working.

10. There is a disconnected wire near the front of the motor, possibly to relay the temperature? Could you resolve that?

Long story long:

I have been gradually adding biodiesel to the diesel mix. When it was running mostly biodiesel, I dared take a trip with the car to Orlando with my wife (using smaller roads). I charged the second battery as insurance against the inevitable battery failure. When I got to Ocala cars started honking at me. I'm used to that since the car doesn't accelerate normally. Then I noticed smoke coming from the front. I stopped and looked under the hood. The whole motor area was covered in biodiesel. I turned on the motor and noticed a fountain coming from one of the valves. A man came by who claimed to work on diesels and using a knife, took off the problem hose (one of the small ones), cut it short, and put it back on. I had called AAA already so they had recommended the local VW dealer. When the hose seemed to be fixed I went by the VW dealer just to have them check it out for safety. They were very excited to see this type of car, none of them had before. This amused me, but also worried me. In the end they turned one of the fuel input valves somewhat in order to avoid chafing and also replaced another hose because it was cracked (this was a different hose than the one that had broken).

Back on the road about a half and hour later, I checked the car just out of anxiety. One of the large hoses had split at the end and was leaking fuel in large amounts. It had emptied the tank, which had been half full. That hose had not been a problem before, so I still don't know if it broke later, or was involved earlier, or if the VW guys accidentally broke it. I was near an auto parts store, bought some clamps and reattached the hose with multiple clamps so it wouldn't bend. We drove to a gas station to fill up and from there managed to drive home. The next day the battery was dead again.

I tell the story because I don't know exactly what caused the (three) hoses to fail, and why they failed in such quick succession. I had been using biodiesel, but it's supposed to take months before they degrade, and these were supposed to be the Viton hoses, so they shouldn't degrade at all. When I do the hose check (pinching the hose into an L shape) they seem fine. Could it be the shaking of the motor; do they all need to be clamped to avoid bending?

I have ordered more of the 1/8 inch hose to replace the one (with the fiber sheathing) that the Ocala VW people put on. That one seems to be "sweating" already.

Anyway, have a look at the car. I can be reached by email or phone anytime. Please keep me informed of possible solutions and costs in advance.

thanks and good luck

Max Becher

Hi Max,

Well after reading your letter I realize that we've got a challenge on our hands, however after looking closely at the problems it came down to two things (1) get much more power and be able to get the car started whenever you want without any reserve power.

First lets get the car started and do so always, the wiring harness from the alternator was changed, secure the alternator belt by repairing/welding  the alternator bracket to maintain the correct belt tension and alignment. However with the belt in position and New harness to the alternator we are reading just over battery voltage as output, we have to replace the alternator after doing so re check output alternator now reads 66amps at 13.46 Volts {Perfect} with these numbers this car should always start unless someone leaves the lights on to drain the battery.

Now we look at the performance Problem, Repair all fuel leaks and try to check injection pump timing, with the Jig in place I am still not able to set the timing where it is suppose to be, Now this is a set up I have used for over 25 Years but after not being able to get the reading on my dial indicator I am now convinced that my dial indicator has died, so I ordered a new dial indicator after getting the new tool try again to set the Injection pump timing Still I cannot get the numbers that I want, remembering we had to install an electric Fuel pump earlier to try to fix a hard start problem, I came to the conclusion the injection pump is faulty, since this is an expensive part I was sure that I had exhausted all other possibilities that's when I called you to tell you we have to get the Injection pump Remanufactured, I called the diesel pump company and explained to them the problem I was having in trying to set the injection pump timing and of course he explained to me that the stator/shaft that the pin for the tool sits on in the pump is worn down and would have to be replaced, once you gave me the ok to proceed we removed the pump packaged it and sent it out, we received it three days later and installed it on the car, we were able to set the pump timing in less than forty minutes and at the settings the manufacturer recommends, since we had already secured all the fuel lines previously all we had to do was to road test this car. WOOOW We have a new car, we can now spin the front tires at will take third gear all the way to 50 miles per hour we have driven this car for the last couple of days since I knew you were not around here, You are now going to enjoy this car as you intended when you got it.

We also fixed the windshield washers.

[unrelated deleted]

Thanks

Smitty

The popping fuel lines

I have been gradually adding biodiesel to the diesel mix. When it was running mostly biodiesel, I dared take a trip with the car to Orlando with my wife, using smaller roads. I charged the second battery as insurance against the inevitable battery failure. When I got to Ocala cars started honking at me. I'm used to that since the car doesn't accelerate normally. Then I noticed smoke coming from the front. I stopped and looked under the hood. The whole motor area was covered in biodiesel. I turned on the motor and noticed a fountain coming from one of the valves. A man came by who claimed to work on diesels and using a knife, took off the problem hose (one of the small ones), cut it short, and put it back on. I had called AAA already so they had recommended the local VW dealer. When the hose seemed to be fixed I went by the VW dealer just to have them check it out for safety. They were very excited to see this type of car, none of them had before. This amused me, but also worried me. In the end they turned one of the fuel input valves somewhat in order to avoid chafing and also replaced another hose because it was cracked (this was a different hose than the one that had broken).

Back on the road about a half an hour later, I checked the car just because of anxiety. One of the large hoses had split at the end and was leaking fuel in large amounts. It had emptied the tank, which had been half full. That hose had not been a problem before, so I still don't know if it broke later, or was involved earlier, or if the VW guys accidentally broke it. I was near an auto parts store, bought some clamps and reattached the hose with multiple clamps so it wouldn't bend. We drove to a gas station to fill up and from there managed to drive home. The next day the battery was dead again.

I tell the story because I don't know exactly what caused the (three) hoses to fail, and why they failed in such quick succession. I had been using biodiesel, but it's supposed to take months before they degrade, and these were supposed to be the Viton hoses, so they shouldn't degrade at all. When I do the hose-check (pinching the hose into an L shape) they seem fine. Could it be the shaking of the motor; do they all need to be clamped to avoid bending?

I have ordered more of the 1/8 inch Viton hose to replace the one (with the fiber sheathing) that the Ocala VW people put on. That one seems to be "sweating" already.

Biodiesel in Florida

There exists a very convenient site, Biodiesel.org from the The National Biodiesel Board (NBB), which helps you find biodiesel stations. It gives you a very clear image of the extent to which biodiesel retail stations are available so far, and which states are more active in the field. On the map [below is an updated map with the Gainesville location taken out - 2/28/10], every purple square represents a biodiesel station. Forida doesn't look so bad on the map, but the reality is different. Many of these stations either don't sell full biodiesel (at B20 or above, meaning a 20% blend of biodiesel and regular diesel), don't sell ANY biodiesel, or don't even exist.

The biofuel situation around here is very interesting. My town, Gainesville, FL, prides itself on being very progressive environmentally. There are all kinds of projects going on at the University, it is the first US city to adopt the German solar power feed in tariff system, there are many housing developments which try to be as green as possible, the city has one of the most extensive bike lane systems, and so on. But when it comes to biodiesel there is really no support whatsoever, at least not for the consumer. The nearest biofuel station is about 50 minutes away, and they usually have only B20, maximum, a 20 percent blend with regular diesel. In short, there is no biodiesel anywhere near Gainesville. The closest reliable biodiesel station is three and half hours away, Glover Oil (number 12 on the map). Shame on Gainesville. Sure, occasionally something pops up on Craigslist, but then you have to buy bulk, etc, and don't know what you're getting. Considering the warmth (which is good for biodiesel because there's less "gelling") and the abundance of farming opportunities, as well as the very large number of trucks that roll through the state, this city and county should really be at the forefront of this opportunity to progress and contribute positively.

Found biodiesel, but far away

I called Freedom Fuels, which is listed as a biodiesel retailer in Gainesville, FL, on the biodiesel.org locater map [not anymore - March 2010]. Mark Robinson, who answered the phone, seemed somewhat unhappy about about my call and said they didn't have any. I got the feeling they were feeling the crunch of sinking oil prices. 

Next I called Glover Oil in Melbourne, FL, which was also on the biodiesel.org map. The person there said they just got some in, to call back tomorrow to make sure it's in the tanks, etc. But, at least they are selling it. This is actually the first person to say they have it (besides Engineered fuels a while ago). I am thinking of going down there with my hybrid, since the pickup is still unreliable. Too bad - I had envisioned using the biodiesel pickup to pick up biodiesel. It's an image I would like to fulfill, for some reason.

The trip is rather long, 180 miles, three hours, and I'll be using regular gas to drive to get biodiesel. 180miles @ 40mpg equals 4.5 gallons of gas. Pretty pathetic.

Viton hoses, speaker system

I emailed Greaseworks again and called. Then after no response I requested that they let me know if they are out of business or not. They responded by email, and mentioned that because the car had been converted from a gas to diesel, that they couldn't guarantee the hose kit would fit. They requested some measurements of the hoses and images. I couldn't measure the hoses (I don't know which hoses are the fuel lines), but sent some good images of the engine. In the evening a representative called and he accommodated me by sending the hoses uncut and a little longer than needed, so that the mechanic could use exactly what is required.

Smitty also recommended I call Sound Depot here in Gainesville regarding improving the radio/speaker system. I asked them about an HD radio (which would give me a few more public radio stations -  the local one plays only classical, and bad classical, and it would interface with the iphone). But they quoted me a figure between 700 and 3000. An HD radio is about 200, or less. Speakers run between 15 and 70 dollars, so I'm not sure what they're talking about. Maybe I'll skip the whole thing.

Right now the radio has only a tape deck and a crappy radio interface, and an on/off button which is somewhat loose and barely works. The sound is very funny: it sounds like a radio in a 70's movie, like it's deliberately squelched to signify "mediated sound source", reminding me of when a radio or TV turns on by itself in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. But during driving, I can barely hear anything because it's so high frequency. I am wondering if the lower speakers are missing altogether. If I trick out this pickup, I'll probably regret loosing that retro atmosphere of the smelly car and the tinny radio, but maybe not for long. Maybe a slick radio with good speakers will make up for that rough driving feel of the car, giving some comfort.

Biofuel lines, cleaning the inside, and the woodgrain dash

I emailed Greaseworks, a place that sells Viton fuel lines. These are the lines that don't corrode with biofuel. Normal diesel fuel lines will corrode gradually with biodiesel -  I suppose because biodiesel is more oily, and the lines are made of some rubber. Biodiesel can be used as a paint remover, it turns out. Anyway I emailed them but haven't heard back. My mechanic also wrote back saying it's best that I buy the hoses and have them sent to him.

Smitty recommended a guy, Emmit, to do detailing, i.e. cleaning the inside of the car thoroughly. He did a great job. The car really needed a good washing on the inside. Now it smells less of that old car smell, but the aroma is still a little bit there, just for atmosphere. He explained that the dash had been stained with a special paint just for plastic and that if I wanted to, I could buy that stuff and do the same, but I'm not sure I want to go down that road. Right now the dash matches everything else.

The woodgrain for the dashboard came in — it looks really nice. It'll make the dash panel look a little less taped together, and a lot more early 80's. I had to pick up one of my sons (while the Honda was being detailed) with the pickup. The radio came on by itself and played Smoke on the Water in perfect bad speaker pitch.

Looking for local biodiesel

Smitty, the mechanic, had given me the name Eudes De Crecy, who had been using biodiesel on many cars, someone who's really knowledgeable about the subject. I called him and asked a few question and got some advice, such as, yes I definitely need to replace the fuel lines with Viton hoses; that in the cold weather I should mix the biodiesel with regular diesel 70/30 or similar, because biodiesel actually thickens. He also mentioned that the fuel filter will have to be changed quite often in the beginning because the biodiesel will clean out the soot from the regular diesel and deposit it in the filter. I hadn't heard that one before. I asked him where to get biofuel locally and he said to call him back in a few days. I'm still not sure why he said that, but I'll call him back on Friday. He said there's one in town, but wouldn't say who. That seemed like a strange way of relaying information. 

I also emailed a local place called Freedomfuels.Inc here in Gainesville again. They had mentioned that soon they'd be able to sell biofuel. Haven't heard back. I am getting a very strange impression that many of the biodiesel resellers in the area actually don't exist, or have stopped production, for various reasons.

I went by a local chinese restaurant and asked them how they get rid of their grease. They said they sell it to someone. If true, it seems the market has already turned from "free" to "pay"; soon people will start stealing the stuff, like in California. Earlier I had asked a different chinese restaurant, but they said they just dump it because they're on the second floor and have no way to put into barrels. I was a little shocked they admitted that. Even though I am nowhere near making biodiesel from grease, I am starting to ask around for it. I am considering just hoarding it, since I predict companies will be snatching up all the local restaurants with contracts. Online people are selling filtered grease for $2.50, very close to the current price of diesel, around $300. One would still have to convert that (or use a converted truck).

The car is running!

Brannon came over again. I had asked him if he could watch me install the battery so I could learn. I put in the battery and he replaced the fuses. The car actually started and Brannon gave me quick lesson in stick shift and diesel car basics. I am grateful to him for giving me that introduction. 

I had practised shift recently with my friend Ethan once on a tractor, with my uncle Ute once, and with our assistant Bailey twice. I didn't stall on my first try with the Rabbit (proud to say). It can even start off 2nd gear, but not uphill. Driving backwards is a bit jumpy. 

It was very exciting to have "fixed" the car. One of my goals, learning to troubleshoot basic car problems was becoming a reality sooner than I had hoped. And it was exciting to drive it after all the wait and stress. This was a very encouraging day, in all.

The Rabbit arrives

I used DAS Dependable Auto Shippers to get the car from California to Florida. This added about 1000 dollars to the price of the car unfortunately. I toyed with the notion of driving it from California, and make a road trip out of it. But I didn't feel confident enough in my mechanical skills or the car. Anyway, I had it shipped to Jacksonville, then from there to my house. 

Well, I am glad I didn't try to drive it from California or Jacksonville. The delivery truck couldn't get it off the truck, because he couldn't start it. He said the same problem occurred in Jacksonville. He found a way of rolling it off the truck. Brannon, our neighbor was around so I asked him his opinion. He is studying auto engineering, so he'd know how to look at a car. He looked at it, we tried jumping it. There was a lot of corrosion on the battery, and a few fuses and cables that didn't seem right to him. Also, the whole engine compartment looked pretty shabby. I was starting to suspect that I got ripped off. 

Brannon gave me advice on what to replace. I went to Pep Boys later that day, exchanged the battery for a new one (the battery cost less with an old one brought in). Also bought some fuse that looked bad.

The Purchase

I looked for a VW Rabbit Pickup diesel on ebaymotors, and other places, over a period of several weeks. Every day some would pop up, some would disappear. I slowly got a feeling for what the going prices were and what to look for. There were three basic categories, crappy to sell for parts, decent but needs work, and good condition with a few minor problems. None were in perfect condition. I prioritized for the truck to have nothing wrong with the engine, minimal rust, a not-too-hideous interior, and an AC. There was a beautiful one in central Florida, but it was a little above budget. This one eventually became a kind of ghost car for me. The one "I should have gotten." 

But soon after that a very nice one appeared. The price was more than most others, but it looked very complete. It had a new paint job, the interior looked well matched up; many other listings had a real mix-and-match look, not this one. The seller claimed the engine had been rebuilt, with only 16k on it, and the AC was functional. Later, on the phone he said the AC works "but not very well". He said the car was bought in Arizona (therefore minimum rust), had been used by an archeologist. In any case, it looked like someone had cared for the car. One problem was, he wanted a money order, not paypal, and my bank advised me to be very careful and get more information. I was also advised by my friend Steve as well as my wife against buying from this seller, based on the seller's behavior: he seller got very frantic when I wanted to back out of the deal. He felt the bidding was over and he would be stuck with having to do another listing, etc. I arranged for a third party, a shipping company, to accept the car so that, at least there really is a car and to make sure it ran OK. In any case, I was anxious to get the car, tired of looking, and I had the feeling it would all work out. Long story short: I bought the car.

This is what the listing looked like:

and this is the listing's text:
Up for sale is  very rare very clean 1982 vw truck with 1.6   TURBO Diesel rebuilt with less than 16 k miles on it . Truck has 155 k miles on it.  5 speed transmission,  working A/C , new headliner , new seats , new tires , new paint  and photos before the paint job are available,body is and was straight .It was  just faded paint from the Arizona sun . It will get 40  to 45 mpg .  New head was installed along with head gasket water pump timing belt ,3 front seals and rear seal .   It has the stock vw oil cooler , 6 blade cooling fan, new front shocks, new rear brakes.14 inch vw alum. wheels. Great truck get in it today and drive it coast to coast. Make your own homemade bio eco diesel and run it with no conversion, also B99 soy diesel . 5 year 100 k mile warranty is available above final price.