Biodiesel in Florida

There exists a very convenient site, Biodiesel.org from the The National Biodiesel Board (NBB), which helps you find biodiesel stations. It gives you a very clear image of the extent to which biodiesel retail stations are available so far, and which states are more active in the field. On the map [below is an updated map with the Gainesville location taken out - 2/28/10], every purple square represents a biodiesel station. Forida doesn't look so bad on the map, but the reality is different. Many of these stations either don't sell full biodiesel (at B20 or above, meaning a 20% blend of biodiesel and regular diesel), don't sell ANY biodiesel, or don't even exist.

The biofuel situation around here is very interesting. My town, Gainesville, FL, prides itself on being very progressive environmentally. There are all kinds of projects going on at the University, it is the first US city to adopt the German solar power feed in tariff system, there are many housing developments which try to be as green as possible, the city has one of the most extensive bike lane systems, and so on. But when it comes to biodiesel there is really no support whatsoever, at least not for the consumer. The nearest biofuel station is about 50 minutes away, and they usually have only B20, maximum, a 20 percent blend with regular diesel. In short, there is no biodiesel anywhere near Gainesville. The closest reliable biodiesel station is three and half hours away, Glover Oil (number 12 on the map). Shame on Gainesville. Sure, occasionally something pops up on Craigslist, but then you have to buy bulk, etc, and don't know what you're getting. Considering the warmth (which is good for biodiesel because there's less "gelling") and the abundance of farming opportunities, as well as the very large number of trucks that roll through the state, this city and county should really be at the forefront of this opportunity to progress and contribute positively.

Dead battery again

The battery died. I used the old fashioned battery charger, a Schumacher, which I bought a version of after I borrowed Smitty's, charging the car battery on low amp for half an hour and then the 50 amp. That didn't work. Then I detached the battery from the car and put the charger on the battery on low for half an hour, then reattached, that worked. Some connecter in the car must be interfering.

The battery keeps losing power after its charged. I think the alternator is messed up. I'm thinking of getting a second battery and keeping it in the tool box, just for security, until the alternator is fixed.

Below is the charger I used. It has helped me out many times. Its only disadvantage is that it needs to be plugged into a wall outlet. It has three settings, 2amp, 10amp and 50amp. I hear that recharging batteries quickly is not good for the battery, for some reason. The longer and slower you do it the better. Using the 2amp setting, and letting it charge for more than a half hour sometimes does the trick. If it doesn't, then a higher, faster setting may work, but this degrades the battery a bit. I really don't know what I'm doing here, but learning by doing. The interface on this charger is really ridiculous - I still don't really get it. On the face, the amp numbers descend from left to right. In the little window however, the needle shows power ascending from left to right, and then the percentage-charged numbers descend left to right again. The device looks like something that has worked so reliably for so long that no one has ever criticized its insane labeling.

Must have truck tool box!

My current obsession is truck tool boxes. The caddy has very little room in the front and in the bed, everything just rolls around. So, as a substitute for a trunk, as a place to put tools, groceries, anything that one doesn't want taking up space in the front cab, one needs a truck tool box. There are many kinds: some go across the sides, some sit along the sides, some just sit inside. There are also many kinds of door systems: some open as one piece, others have a "butterfly" system. And there are generally three classes of quality: "good," "better," and "best," as in lower class, middle class, and upper class. The class system seems to mainly refer to the way the metal is treated, and most noticeably what kind of latches are used. The best of them have very smoothly operating latches, the worst (a.k.a "good) ones have tinny, easily sticking latches. Oh, and there's the rattling. A good box won't rattle due to all kinds of seals and buffers.

Yesterday I went to Sears. I had researched online truck tool boxes again and came upon Delta truck boxes. Sears seemed to have a lot of them. I went to the store and discovered they only had three in the showroom. The sales woman kept me waiting for a long time, but was very polite. She remembered a box that was in the back, a returned item. She took a while (forgiven) and then returned with a packaged truck box. I helped her pull the box out and she went to get the measuring tape. She returned a long while later (forgiven). We measured the box and it fit my truck perfectly. I thought that the fact that it was a rejected item it could be reduced in price, but not so. They wanted about  $279 plus tax.  I left my name, mentioned returning. The saleswoman asked for a call back if I didn't want it. In the end I found another store selling a similar item for less, and gave her a call back to say I wouldn't buy it (am I forgiven?).


I was really looking forward to buying that toolbox. But we needed some feed from Tractor Supply Company. I had checked out their boxes a few times, but couldn't make up my mind. I decided to see their inventory in person one more time. It turned out they had a Delta truck box as well, and it fit perfectly. It was a pleasant experience, not only to finally use the truck for getting feed, but also to get the box at a decent price. It was $229 instead of the higher Sears price of $279. But they tell me there's a difference in the latches, etc.  I guess I'll be the wiser when things become annoying. 


At least I finally got the truck box in place. It looks great. Gives the whole truck a different feel. "In the right light" the truck "almost looks handsome" quoting Lawrence of Arabia, in this case the diamond pattern of the toolbox reflects on the back of the "cab," joining the composition. I went to the supermarket this evening, for no real need, just to see if the supermarket bags would fit. They didn't. But they will with a little adjusting (crushing).  


I also considered the depth of the truckbox. The deeper the truckbox, the more you can put in it. Sorry about that obvious bit of information. However, the more shallow the truck box, the more you can put into the truck bed, like the things that are long, such as lumber and drywall for example. What is the ideal shallowness of the truckbox? If you buy 4x4's or a lot of drywall then the truckbox could get in the way. This is the variation that you see along the streets of rural America. Each person has to decide which is more important, the length of the truck, or the height of the space underneath the toolbox. Well it goes on, and until you actually have to deal with your particular problems as a craftsman of some sort, you won't really know why certain choices are best.  People can tell a lot about you from your truck box. Each pickup truck is a reflection of that person's needs and purposes, as well as his/her economic ability or desire to meet those needs. Ah, the signifiers of the country side, an entire world to explore.

Toolboxe and bedliner.

We ordered pizza from our new favorite New York style Pizza place in Gainesville, "I love New York Pizza" (although Satchel's still has the best Pizza over all). They don't deliver. I took this as my chance to employ my pickup, which I trust on a short trip like this. 


But first I went to Tractor Supply Company to check out their pickup bed toolboxes, just in case they have a decent offer. I really like the white steel crossover, with single lid or "butterfly" doors. But they only had the "full size" version. According to the catalogue, version that fits my bed would be the same price, around 190 something. I was tempted to buy something, but if it didn't fit, there was no choice. Should I go with the popular steel look for the toolbox? Presently I prefer the cheap white crossover single lid boxes. The steel look may have many advantages, such as scratches getting ignored by the pattern of the metal. 

I am looking into getting the truck bed lined. Tomorrow I plan to go to Alachua, Southern Customs, recommended by George Frazier, our friend and helper when it comes to all animal issues. He had them quote a $300 figure. I drove the opposite direction past the house to get the pizza. On the way I confirmed what i had been suspecting for a while: that my stalling and my stick shifting problems were due to the fact that I let go of the clutch first and too slowly. Now, instead I've been giving gas first, and letting the clutch go a bit more quickly, after some confirmation. Give gas, let go of clutch, instead of clutch/gas at same time. Before that I had been hearing a strange whirring sound attributed to a belt problem, when I don't do this. But let's see.

Regarding the bed liner... Should I go with a professional spray-in (Line-x, Rhino, Herculiner) or do my own (several brands are available, some have two different kinds of coats). Or keep the sides free using only a bed mat? Or just mess up the bed? I don't like the bed being all white and seeing it scratch up over time. I love the idea of it being ready "for anything". Even putting a bedred (a kind of rubber mat) on top of the spray in might be a good idea, so the kids can ride in it comfortably. 

I am really falling prey to country consumerism, accessorizing my pickup, and all, but I have my rationalizations.

Found biodiesel, but far away

I called Freedom Fuels, which is listed as a biodiesel retailer in Gainesville, FL, on the biodiesel.org locater map [not anymore - March 2010]. Mark Robinson, who answered the phone, seemed somewhat unhappy about about my call and said they didn't have any. I got the feeling they were feeling the crunch of sinking oil prices. 

Next I called Glover Oil in Melbourne, FL, which was also on the biodiesel.org map. The person there said they just got some in, to call back tomorrow to make sure it's in the tanks, etc. But, at least they are selling it. This is actually the first person to say they have it (besides Engineered fuels a while ago). I am thinking of going down there with my hybrid, since the pickup is still unreliable. Too bad - I had envisioned using the biodiesel pickup to pick up biodiesel. It's an image I would like to fulfill, for some reason.

The trip is rather long, 180 miles, three hours, and I'll be using regular gas to drive to get biodiesel. 180miles @ 40mpg equals 4.5 gallons of gas. Pretty pathetic.

A kink in the line

My friend Jack Stenner came over and discovered a kink in the fuel line. He knows everything about VW's and German cars in general. The kink seemed a minor thing, but it occupied my mind. Can I drive with this thing, having a kink in the fuel line? Comfortably?

Two days later I pulled out the transparent, newly installed Viton fuel line from its "toothed nipple". It looked easy to put back, but I feared another frustrating series of events, which of course came true. I cut off the kinked, or folded, part and attempted to push the hose/line back onto the nipple. It didn't fit. I had a vague memory that you need to heat a hose to get it to fit and stick. I checked the manual that the biodiesl Viton hoses came with and they mentioned using a blowdryer. That made sense to me. But then I thought: "I'll be using a blowdryer on a fuel line still connected to fuel, and this isn't oily biofuel, but real Diesel. Words like flashpoint, ignition came to my mind. I was able to heat the tip of the hose enough to get about two teeth up the nipple, but not more. 

I called Smitty in frustration, didn't want to bother him, but had little choice. I also emailed Jack, but didn't feel comfortable doing that either, as it is such a minor thing. But for me it was major. I couldn't drive the truck knowing the fuel line was interrupted, which meant we couldn't go buy hay for the donkeys. I know this is irrational, but for me the plan was to get a pickup for certain purposes. I need to follow that plan, otherwise I get very depressed. The kink would have stopped me from following the plan, and using the other car to ge the hay would have symbolized a defeat. This really stressed me out. I know it's silly, but that's how I tick sometimes. Anyway, after I got the transparent hose on, I added a cut ring from a leftover black hose, and put a metal ring around everything. It now actually looks very solid.

This brings me to a question I've had all along regarding motors, cars, planes — well any system in general. When a part fails, how much of the chain is effected, and to what extent? Let's call this the weak chain effect. In computers, for example, there's very little tolerance for this. If one part fails, an entire component needs to be replaced. There's no fixing just a bit of it, not realistically. In cars, there seems to be a lot of tolerance, as if there's a spectrum of disfunction. Gradually, in a car, things fail. Or, failing is gradual. This is bad, in that the car is always failing to some extend, but also good in that in most cases a partial or even a complete failure doesn't collapse the whole system. Right now, my transmission is making some funny noises, like a belt whirring around a post, but everything still works. I have a clue that something is off, but can go on. This leads to the next impulse of thinking either: "panic" or "it'll go away". So far I've decided to opt for the second, but I know deep down this can't last. Again, instead of a binary concern pattern, I'm faced with a gradualistic one. My panic is stretched out over time, with occasional feedback signals. Is this better?